People from Goris confirm, what exactly they have invented an arch as the architectural form. Having wandered on the cave city of Hndzoresk and not less cave Old Goris, suddenly you understand that you do not concern any more it with humour. And in general, it is necessary to take a walk on caves, to observe how the rough laying blocking inputs, acquires a building delicacy, and then and separates, beginning independent life. Also becomes so obviously that the architecture was born by nature a budding method.
The view from an observation deck on Old Hndzoresk causes confusion of feelings. These three kilometers of the gorge are covered with sharp boulders with empty eye-sockets of caves. About one thousand years ago the person lodged in them. First of all it, should be, estimated safety of these dwellings in which more likely the crazy bird will fly, than the predator or the enemy will reach. To come into the house at height of meters 20 — 30, owners beat at an entrance in a cave a horizontal wooden bar over which from the earth threw a rope with a hook and climbed up on it. Here’s a home climbing. Incidentally, the last inhabitant of these places, which can be found here a couple of years ago, was well over eighty. But as it turned out, the love of his house, too, for all ages. On this trip we’re here climber is not found.
In the shadow of huge trees slowly we go down in the gorge. In an arch shadow — a spring. This arch — man-made. Difficult, should be, to local builders was to refuse a habit to see the sky in the form of a semicircle.
Catholicos Abraham Kretatsi so described Hndzoresk in 1735: roofs of one houses served as a garden for others. Probably, published it it was similar to a green skyscraper.
By the way, Hndzoresk in transfer means “apple” — it is possible to guess that here grew and now many apple-trees grow. According to other version, it is version of the phrase squared by a spoken language Chorus Dzor — «the deep gorge». In a word, at these places was the whole two reasons so to be called.
The trail to the right leads to the tomb of the glorious warrior Mkhitar Sparapet, along with David-Bek banished from the Syunik Persians. Past the ruins of small churches go through the yard. And then …
Bear jumped out, I was surprised to less than the appearance of this man – this is the place seemed deserted one word back.
– Who are you? – I ask.
– What is there to lose?
– I have a garden at the bottom. So I often go here. And today, then decided to come to the grave Mkhitar, see if there is in order. Stone of Sparapet this one. You know, there is only his body was buried. And the Persians cut off his head to the body did not recognize anyone – they were afraid that the people rebel. So, God knows where his head is now Sparapet.
On the headstone carved army commander – the horsemen with spears and guns go camping. At exactly the same tomb shows the number of feast musicians with instruments, some with a cup of wine – playboy must be buried here.
Earth does not care who it is. More importantly, who is on it goes. But people are equally important and the first and second.
Here, all roads pass by caves. They – a lot. Once Khndzoresk was the largest village in eastern Armenia.
– In 1913 there were 1800 houses, and lived more than 8,000 people. In the village there were 27 shops and 7 schools – says Martiros. – And though the inhabitants were resettled in the middle of last century, people lived here a long time.
– The last I remember was the old grandmother …
– No-ee. The last were newlyweds. Man loved the guy, and young parents were at odds, and not in what they do not want to marry. And he stole it, and they lived there in that cave. The winter cooled the parents and asked them to return home. And that’s our church. And it was at the school. Now only the ghosts live here. But what a fabulous place out! Well said, our great writer Gray Khanzadyan -read it? he is our brother – “Gorge abandoned tales.”
The sun bakes mercilessly, and we are breathing hard, get out back to the observation. Smiling workers of the local cafes offensive eloquent: “Well, weaklings, exhausted?” – “Yes, here. We on the ropes in their homes are not able to climb! “- It is my responsibility apologetic look.
Ahead of a break in the hotel and the Old Goris.
Goris – only in Armenia but Yerevan, a city built on a single plan. Symmetrically lined with streets, yards and houses with flower beds, which corresponds to the appearance of not only the taste of their owners, but the overall style. But the building stage rises through the gorge – the roof of each floor, courtyard to another – just as described Khndzoresk Kretatsi. However, there is a cave town – Old Goris. Once again, the sky oval, hollowed in the rock beds and chairs, shelves and … Opening! In many homes, caves in the corner made by small grooves, which obviously fueled the fires. And in one – a two-story – a deep pit, lined with stone. Of course! What a reason to stir up the fire on every floor, where both can warm a deep pit. And at the same time to cook dinner. But here is where did the tan door! And the pita bread! Now, guys, the arch can safely give to someone else.
– Somewhere there must be an ancient theater, – grumbles our photographer, and we look into all the caves in a row.
And here it is – a small room with an amphitheater. High level – seats- one might think, for the giants, rising to the ceiling. Moving away from them a small balcony with a window in the theater courtyard. At the entrance is a vertical block.
– Hanger – just kidding.
Frankly, on a small patch in the middle, I rather imagine a shaman than an actor. Although, you never know, you never know …
Rooms, caves, caves with porches, arched house without the caves… Goris – it is a museum of the evolution of architecture, which exhibits contemporary can never yield to the ancients. This is a small, but the city, born from the rocks by budding. No! Still, out of love.